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STEP 2
REMOVING THE
OLD GUTS
Remove all bolts from the differential
cover in a criss cross pattern.
14mm bolts
Once the cover is off the open differential
guts are revealed.
Carefully bang off the axle shafts making
sure not to hit the ring gear and mark each one with the side it came
off of. What I did instead of marking them was to place the left side
on the left side of the table and the right side on the right side of
the table. Wrapped them in plastic bags so they wouldn't get any dirt
on them.
Now you can remove the bearing cap bolts
and bearing caps from both sides.
Be sure to place the cap and bolts separate from each other so that
you make sure you know which side they came from.
Now you can remove the stubborn axle shaft
seals with either a screwdriver or pliers, whichever works.
Now you can grab a tap and hammer and knock
that old differential out of there. Slowly tap each side until it
comes out evenly.
Be VERY CAREFUL and make sure that when the
diff pops out that you keep the discs in their proper order and on the
proper side.
I kept the left set off to the far left of the table and the right set
off to the far right.
Clean out the inside of the differential
case with lots of brake cleaner.
Now get your impact wrench and go at it on
those ring gear bolts. The dewalt impact gun i borrowed seem to have a
hell of a hard time getting those bolts on there. They must have some
super strong lock tight from the factory.
Take the old ring gear off and place on new
kaaz unit and be sure to use locktight on the bolts.
It's ideal to place the differential in a vice to torque the ring
bolts down. Be sure to place a padding around the teeth of the vice
and do not tighten vice so much that it ruins the differential.
Also make sure to tighten bolts in a criss cross pattern to 98-112ft
lbs tq.
I did not have a vice available , so I did what i could with an
electric impact.
Once the diff is seated in properly torque
down bearing caps to 65-72ft lbs tq. If you don't have a vice
available, you might need to temporarily place the axle shafts in to
get proper leverage.
Now you can install the output seals
provided with the differential with a soft hammer. It is recommended
that you place a flat object between hammer and seal so that the seal
wont go in too much.
Install the axle shafts with a dead blow
hammer.
RUN A
PATTERN
Take the Permatex Prussian blue and
place a small drop on the face of one of the teeth of the gear. Now
rotate the shafts a couple of times so that the ring and pinion gear
can smash the die and show you exactly where the teeth are meshing at.
The white spot is exactly where you want the teeth to mesh. The red
part is definitely not where you want it. The yellow part is also
where you don't want it(but i hear the yellow part is far better than
having it on the red.
If the pattern is off, you would need to
buy adjusting shims of certain sizes to move the differential either
left or right. I think kaaz has it right on the money though, because
in my install it was right on the white spot.
Be sure to also clean differential cover and place new gasket provided
with kaaz unit and apply rtv as recommended.
Tighten cover bolts in a criss cross
pattern to 12-17ft lbs tq.
I let the rtv dry for a couple of days
since I wasn't in a hurry for installation (mainly i didn't have too
much time to work on it). So no leaks showed up.
Place differential back on jack and raise
it back up in its original place You may need a couple of friends to
guide the axles up with it since the axles spring out. Bolt the
differential back on. Put sway bar back on if you took it off. Then
bolt on the driveshaft. Make sure not to leave any bolts loose. Make
sure car is level and fill with fluid til it starts to pour out.
Tighten fill plug and drain plug from 43-72ft lbs tq.
BREAK IN
PROCEDURE
Now that it's installed go to the nearest
parking lot and drive in a figure eight pattern. In the straight part
of the 8, slowly accelerate to 20km/hr. Once you reach the end of the
straight go into neutral with clutch released. Make the smallest turns
with the maximum steering angle. Once you get back to the straight ,
slowly accelerate again to 20km/hr and keep repeating for a period of
30 minutes.
How do I fix the chattering noise?
We understand that most car owners who use the mechanical L.S.D. are
very disturbed by the chattering noise. As mentioned previously, the
chattering noise comes from the friction between the clutch plates.
This situation is normally caused by not doing enough break in and bad
angle fit between the clutch plates.
The best to break in and remove the noise is by driving in a “figure
8” pattern as shown below for about 30 minutes and let the plates rub
in to form a good fit. If this initial break in is not performed and
too much torque is applied to the L.S.D. at once, the plates will form
strange angles. Then the chattering noise will continue and may even
cause damage to the L.S.D.
The oil used in the L.S.D. could also contribute to the noise problem.
Poor quality oils contain large amount of tiny grains of metal which
cause chattering noises. If noise still occurs after break in, try
changing the L.S.D. oil. This usually eliminates or reduces the noise.
Oil which contains large amount of added chemicals will cause noise
too. Users who are especially concerned about the chattering noise
could think about changing to a better quality oil such as KAAZ
Powertrain Gear Oil. |
